Saturday, November 05, 2011

Draped Top - Paco Peralta

Preparing the Front and Back

The front and the back need to be prepared before joining them at the shoulder.  I first need to answer Bunny's question from yesterday regarding the upper front.  The portion of the front that has the drape is cut on the bias for a woven and on the straight of grain for a knit.  You can see both sets of grain lines in the photo below.  I cut mine on the bias.

For the front, the upper front and lower front need to be joined.  The upper front has a point, which must be set into the lower front.  The lower front is stay stitched along the stitching line and pivoted at the point, then clipped, as seen below.

 After that the front is set in carefully, stitching along each long edge and pivoting at the point, as you would for any inset corner. 

So far, this is what it looks like:

For the back, the back facing needs to be attached before stitching the shoulder seams.  This is because the front drape is drafted with a self facing, not a separate one.  Because of that, you can not construct the neck facing as one unit and attach it later.  If you're going to use a zipper (I'm not for this version), you need to install it first, then install each side of the back neck facing.

At first, I was going to use a very light colored organza as interfacing, but once I made and finished the back facing unit, I was not happy with it at all.  I ended up cutting a new facing and not using any interfacing, and I think this will be fine.  The back neck is pretty stable between the stay stitching and the seam used to attach the facing.  

Next up: sewing the shoulder seams and finishing the armholes.

Parting Shot:  Sewing.  Now that she's done with the drafting and dyeing, my daughter has to do the sewing on her project.  If she gets it done, and I have permission from her, I show it to you although that might not be for a few months.


Bunny said...

What gorgeous lace! It's even prettier than I thought.

I'm cheering on your daughter. Sew on!!!

Judy said...

I love that your daughter sews. I was taught by my mother and there is something so sweet about seeing it passed down.

Nancy W. said...

That lace is beautiful. Love it.

Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Ooooh Summerset, the lace is so yummy! Thanks for the tips on this pattern, I have just received mine, and your journey will be a big help when constructing mine.