The Holy Grail - Part Seven

Getting Ready to Cut

I'm almost ready to cut out a real pair of jeans, so I've been working towards that goal today, along with generally cleaning up my sewing area and hanging around the house.  I bought some twill today at Joann's - nothing too expensive, but nice enough to wear out and about.  Since this pair will be white, I expect that I'll have to replace them sometime anyway just due things that happen to white jeans, so cheap fabric it is.  The fabric right now is going through some wash and dry cycles just to make sure there is no unexpected shrinkage later.

As far as the pattern, I first marked the current seam lines on the latest muslin in green.  Then I took the muslin apart, pressed the pieces and corrected the seam allowances.  I can now use this as my pattern.  I also had to trace the other pieces that I didn't use for the muslins:  pockets, front pocket bags, and waistband pieces.  I traced from Burda for those pieces.  I liked the curved waistband and pocket pieces better from Burda. 

Along with some help from Wellie, I think I'll be ready to cut the jeans out tomorrow, and I'll give you an update later this week.  Tomorrow:  an update on Spring's First Blush.

Parting Shot:  In Bloom.  My irises are in full bloom - this clump really, really, needs to be divided.  Maybe this year. 

A Quick Retrofit and a Long Hike

Today my husband and I hiked Mt. Flume via the Osseo Trail, 11.2 miles from the car to the summit and back.  Before leaving, I needed to retrofit my lighter, smaller backpack so that it could accommodate the tube of my Camelback hydration system.  I wanted to use the smaller backpack because now that it is summer I don't need my larger one to carry a complete change of clothes and accessories and extra gear like microspikes, crampons and snowshoes like I do in the winter.  I really only needed food, water, a jacket and a few other small things. 

To be able to put the tubing for the Camelback through the backpack and leave the water reservoir inside, I put an extra large eyelet in the top of the backpack.  This took only a few minutes and it worked perfectly.  The tubing comes up through the eyelet:

Inside the pack is a 3L water reservoir to which the tubing is attached:

The hike itself was really good, with many easier sections.  There was a middle section that was steeper, ascending with switchbacks and eventually staircases in the really steep sections:

In the section with the staircases, there were many trilliums:

We're almost at the top here, you can see my husband on the right ready to ascend this rocky section:

At the top, we took a nice break and some photos:

This only peak on the East side of Franconia Notch, along the Franconia Ridge that we hadn't climbed yet.  At  one point or other we have been on at least once (from the left to right) Mt. Liberty on the far left, Little Haystack, Mt. Lincoln and in the very back and far right, Mt. Lafayette.

Parting Shot:  Together.  Here's a photo of my husband and I at the summit of Mt. Flume, overlooking Franconia Notch.  No, we are not the same height.  I'm standing on a rock.  It isn't often that we get to hike together as we usually have to find someone to take care of the children.  My MIL was kind enough to come over and watch the children today so that we could hike.

The Holy Grail - Part Six

Almost There!

I'm think I'm getting pretty close to having this jeans pattern where I want it.  There is a difference between a garment that is perfectly smooth and wrinkle free while standing and a garment that you can actually sit, walk and move in.  I'm evaluating each change with both appearance and functionality in mind.  I thought it would be good if you could see my current favorite pair, along with the current best muslin, just to see how they compare.  Since these photos, I've scooped out a bit more of the back crotch curve and that seems to eliminated some of the back thigh wrinkles.

Back:

Front:

Side:

They're pretty close, even without the benefit of stretch.  If you want to see some jeans that fit about the same way, check out Dawn's Jalie jeans that she finished recently. 

For the record, this is what I've done to the pattern:

• increased fabric length over the seat 
• took a larger back inseam at the waist 
• made one fish eye dart at back thigh
• increased back leg width at the calf only
• reduced waistband at side seams.  
• raised waistband at center back; lowered waistband at center front
• scooped out back crotch a little more

That may sound like a lot, but some of those things were very easy to do, and can be quickly be done when a pattern is traced off.  Only two of those items take a little more time and redrafting to accomplish.  Most of this I've done before to trousers patterns in one way or other.  It is good to know exactly what your fit issues are.  Next time I make jeans or trousers, it will be quicker for me to identify what needs to be done.  I know exactly what needs to be done to blouses/bodices, to make them work for me, this is the same, just with jeans.  I'm still working on jacket changes, but I'll get there with those, too!

I did have a suggestion to make trouser jeans.  I've already made that style for myself and I rarely wear them.  They're really lovely jeans and they hang in my closet, unworn.  I'm not sure what it is about them, but I always reach for my other pairs of jeans instead.  

Mary Beth and Bunny brought up some good points about the difference in trouser vs. jeans drafts.  There is a lot difference between a jean and a trouser in terms of fit and functionality.  Now that I have a pattern that fits reasonably well, I can use it to make any jeans style I want.  If I want really skinny jeans, I can do that.  If I want flares (which I don't; they make me look even shorter), I can do that too.

Next, I need to actually make a pattern from this muslin and make any final changes.  I'm thinking I will mark all the seams with a marker before taking it apart, press it and then make a new pattern from the muslin pieces.  More on that in another post.

Parting Shot:  Cardigan.  At least that's what I'll have when I'm finished knitting this navy blue merino superwash wool that I bought from Knit Picks.   The pattern in Old Fashioned Girl, available at Verena Knitting's website. I love the pattern and it will be perfect for year round, in summer with whites and in the winter with navy. 

Spring's First Blush - Part VII

New Ideas

I've picked up where I left off in the numbering system for the posts with the next number in the series.  The last numbered post for the original Spring's First Blush was VI, and I want to keep all the posts together, so that's why we're starting with VII instead of I.  Just in case you wondered or even noticed.

I've decided to remove the flower and button embellishments and bead embellishments (except for the center section) from the necklace - which will hereafter be referred as a yoke, since that what it is destined to become.  I like the quilted flower and leaves, but in the spirit of being more sophisticated and subtle, I want to pare down all the stuff and keep it simple and elegant. I'll most likely replace some of the beads, but for now, they're gone. 

The diamond quilted section on the right looked a bit empty, so I added an extra gold metallic twin needle line to the quilting that was already there.  I like it and it adds a little extra something without being distracting.  This is also good because that skirt will have an entire panel on the front and on the back like this and it would be a bit bland without a little something to dress it up.  I used my narrower double needle - this is a 1/2" grid, so I needed to be able to fit another two lines in there and still have it look balanced.

Speaking of the skirt, the plan is to make each of the three panels like the panels on the yoke.  On left would be a panel with the flower and leaf quilting (which will need to be reworked), in the center would be a panel of wine glass quilting (that's what some people call it), and the right panel would have the 1/2" diamond quilting with the extra gold lines.

I've been working with the skirt pattern, and I have to redraft it a little bit - I'd like the panels to be roughly equal in size.  As it is, the center panels are larger than the side panels.  What I've done here is to move some of the width of the center panel to the side panels to even things out a bit.  In the photo below, you can see the center front panel with the old pattern on top and the new pattern on the bottom.  Not hard and it is nice to have a copy of the pattern on heavier paper - better for playing with the artwork.

Now, on to the easier quilting of the skirt. That should go quickly, then I can play with the artwork a bit before quilting those skirt panels.  I know I'm going to need to modify the original artwork to work with the space.

Tomorrow:  Back to those jeans - I think I've got a better fit after some small changes, plus some other comments.

Parting Shot:  Yarn.  I ordered some yarn from KnitPicks a couple weeks ago and the order arrived yesterday.  I plan to make some socks and a cardigan for the fall - these projects should keep me busy over the summer, yet be portable enough for all the traveling I'll be doing.

Spring's First Blush - Reintroduction

Are You Ready For More?

When we last saw Spring's First Blush, it was as a bib necklace:

While it is pretty, I really wanted to do more with it, and add a companion piece to it.  I've decided to refashion the necklace into a top and to make a matching skirt.  The plan is to take the necklace apart, redo some of the embellishments and add fabric to make a top.  I think I'm going to try draping/working with my dress form rather than using a flat pattern.  It should be interesting!

For the skirt, I'm going to use the skirt from Burda 1/08, #127.  The is the same pattern I used for my red Barcelona Beauty suit (which I still have, wear often in the winter to church and love).  I thinkg starting with a pattern I've already made, and that I already know fits me will be an advantage and a nice change.  Furthermore, it already has three panels each for the front and back, good for what I have in mind for the embellishing - as each panel will echo the sections of the necklace/yoke for the top. 

BTW, did you noticed - no vintage patterns?!?  Every once in a while it is good to do something different than you normally do in your artwork. I'm also going to try (and this will be very hard) to make this outfit more subtle and less flashy than some of my previous ensembles.  Of course, after Garden Path, anything seems a bit subdued!
 
Next:  More refashion ideas and getting to work on the skirt.

Parting Shot:  Refashion Dress.  The weather is nice and warm and I'm finally able to wear the refashioned dress!  I have two luncheons today - don't ask how that happened, and I'll probably eat one course at each - so this is the perfect dress.  I'll add a cardigan if the air conditioning is too cold at any of the locations.  BTW, I am happy about the dress, the photographer (the better one) caught me off guard!

The Holy Grail - Part 5

Not Bad, Not Great

Well, the hybrid muslin isn't too bad.  After yesterday's Denim Disasters link, I'm pretty sure we all know what really bad is!  At any rate, here they are:

 Sorry for the dark areas.  My regular junior photographer wasn't available so I had to use the other one.

I will say, there are less wrinkles in real life, they are comfortable and fit almost like my favorite pair.  I did do a wear test around the house for a bit, sitting, standing, moving about just to make sure that they're functional.  The jeans can look great while standing, but if I can't sit in them, that's a problem! 

BTW, I did let out the back seams a bit in the calf area - NancyK confirmed this idea with her comment yesterday (thank you, Nancy!).  The Burda jean is a tiny bit tapered from knee to hem and the extra room helped a little.

I still think these need a bit of work, but I'm not sure how much better I can make them.  They aren't bad, they are functional, but with the amount of curves I'm trying to cover and still be able to move comfortably I'm not sure some of the wrinkles would go away.  I realized the other day while working on these, that my favorite jeans have stretch in them.  Major difference, as these are not!  I don't think I'll ever get a smooth back leg without a close to body measurement or even some negative ease in the thigh and a stretch fabric.  I'm not trying to make leggings, but I would like a little better fit!

I'm going to put them away for a few days and then put them back on and look at them with fresh eyes.  Sometimes you work on something too much and then you can't see the forest for the trees!

Tomorrow:  I'm starting a new art garment, sort of.  You'll see tomorrow.

Parting Shot:  Butterick 7886.  I got this blouse pattern last week, courtesy of Myra's Etsy shop.  The blouse is pretty basic, but then there's that optional tab detail that gives it that little bit of something different that I like.

The Holy Grail - Part Four

I'm Thinking About a Hybrid


More on the hybrid later.  Early yesterday afternoon I started altering the Patrones.  Neither the Patrones or Burda is perfect, but believe me, I've had worse experiences with jean patterns!  I do look at the measurements and if I have a difference of more than two sizes between my waist and hip measurements, I know I'm in trouble.  I've looked at Jalie and other patterns and I'm pretty sure they'd be a  worse experience.  I'm not sure about the Jennifer Stern jeans pattern. I do know I've never made anything like these shown in the 10 Ugliest Jeans!  (Warning:  the first one is a doozy!)


To start, I am going to work on the back of the jeans, since that is where the majority of the problems are.  The front is pretty good, except tweaking that front crotch curve a bit.

The back definitely needs some sort of sway back adjustment.  From the side view photos, it is obvious that the back is pulled down, meaning that I've got more junk in the trunk than there is fabric to cover.  Logically, then, I need *more* fabric in the butt area to cover what I've got.  In that case, I need to add to the seat of the pants.  This is accomplished by releasing the center back seam, cutting a slash perpendicular to the seam, spreading the slash edges open and inserting more fabric.  To transfer that to a pattern, the same thing needs to happen - just add more tissue to fill the empty space. 

In real life, this is what the alteration looks like in muslin form:

I've also taken out some of the waistband at the side seams.  I do this and have done this to every skirt, trousers, shorts and sometimes dresses that I've made over the last 25+ years of sewing for myself.  It's just how I'm built, and I know I need to do it.

I've also removed some of the center back seam, starting at the waistband and tapering back to the original seam line at the back yoke.

I still need to make the waist line level all the way around the body to complete the sway back alteration because the center back is still pulled down a bit.  I am going to wait on that part because I know that the center back waist line will be affected by the fish eye darts to remedy those back leg wrinkles.  Rather than altering the pattern twice, I'll level out that waist line when I'm through with that.  For the moment, here is what I have with the fish eye darts pinned out and extra added to the seat of the pants:


I need to make all these changes to the paper pattern, make another muslin and see what I've got. 

I did take a look at the side seams on both muslins and on other jeans that I own because the point was brought up in the comments.  Both muslins have a curvy side seam - meaning that it is not plumb straight from top to bottom.  The Burda is not as bad as the Patrones, but even my RTW jeans are like that - due to the wonderful front thigh muscles and large calves that I have.  None the less, the plan is to make a hybrid muslin - Patrones crotch/hip/butt with Burda side/inseams.  I'm also going to steal Burda's curved waistband, too, when I actually make up the jeans.  I have found in the past that a curved waistband is much better for my shape than a straight one. 


Tomorrow:  a hybrid muslin.

Parting Shot:  The Other Irises.  My other irises have started to bloom too.  This clump has really grown and I think I'll divide it in the fall (I've said that for the past three years!) and hopefully spread the beauty to other parts of the yard.  These didn't bloom the first two years they were in the ground, but since then, they've bloomed every year.

The Holy Grail - Part Three

Muslin #2 - Burda 4/10, #120, size 38

So, I've made up the Burda pair of jeans, and I'm not surprised at the results.  I sort of knew this is how they'd be, so maybe that's why I've avoided making Burda trousers of any kind?  Not sure.  Here they are.  I will admit that I did cheat a little an pin out a bit at the sides on the waistband - the Burda has a contoured waistband.  That didn't help much, as you can see.

Front:

Back:

Side:

These are definitely worse than the Patrones - they bind against my inner thighs while moving, which didn't happen at all with Patrones.  I will have to say that the rise is higher on these, so that is one thing in their favor.  I think that these would need the same adjustments as the Patrones, just a larger adjustment.  The waist is really, really big in these as you can see from the side shot.  That's not surprising, because according to the measurements, I'm at least two sizes smaller in the waist than the hip in Burda and only one size or so smaller in the waist than the hip in Patrones.  Maybe the Patrones are drafted more for the Latina body shape (a little more curvy) since it is a Spanish pattern magazine?  Not sure. 

I'm thinking I'll start altering the Patrones pair tomorrow and see what just a classic sway back alteration with do for them.

Parting Shot:  More Irises.  I knew I'd have plenty of irises by my husband's birthday (today) and here they are:

The Holy Grail - Part Two

First Jeans Muslin

I cut out and sewed up the first muslin from Patrones magazine #290, model #31, the classic jeans in a white twill.  Actually they're not awful, and fit fairly well or at least not any worse than any other trousers I've ever made.

Front:

Back:

Side:

They're not tight through thighs, but as you can see, I've got a little weirdness at the front crotch, wrinkling at the back of the leg, a sway back issue and a waist that is way too big.  I'm not surprised.  This is how RTW trousers usually fit me.  They are comfortable, but will need some work to fit better. I'll need at least a sway back alteration, some fish eye darts on the back leg and probably some taken out at the side seams at the upper hip waistband. 

Before I do any of that, I'm going to make up the Burda pair and see how they fit out of curiosity.  I'm not sure that they'll be any better or any worse, but the answer is only 1 1/2 yards of cheap fabric away.

Parting Shot: Simplicity 3975.  Here's another blouse pattern I picked up off of eBay.  This one has kimono sleeves, faux welt pockets and some fun with stripes.  I'm not sure if this one will make it into the Great Vintage Shirt project, but it was interesting!

The Holy Grail - Part One

Finding a Jeans Pattern

I've decided that I'm going to try to find a jeans pattern that fits fairly well and then alter where it needs it.  I'm pretty sure that this will be like searching for the Holy Grail - it might exist, it might not.  This pattern must exist *somewhere* because I really like the RTW petite jeans I'm wearing now, so someone, somewhere must have made a pattern to mass produce them.  What I'm looking for is a slim fit, straight leg jean in a petite size for someone who has curves.  My current favorite pair is a RTW 6 petite, so this shouldn't be too hard, or should it?

I've rounded up three new patterns to try - all drafted for jeans, not trousers.  Of these three, I'll probably only make up two, and one of those will be out of curiosity only.  Here's what I'll be trying:

1. Patrones #290, model #21, size 40.  I probably won't make this pair at all, but I was curious as to the crotch curve and how narrow these are in the leg.  They are labeled as what we would call a skinny jean - narrow through the leg.

2.  Patrones #290, model #31, size 40.  This is the pair I'm most interested in.  I've had very good luck with Patrones trousers and shorts in the past, so this will be the first one I try.  This one is labeled as a classic jean and has a straight leg. If I can get this to fit, I can make a skinny jean from this pattern.

3.  Burda 4/2010, model #120, size 38.  This is the one I'm going to make up just out of curiosity.  I've never made up a Burda trouser.  I've made just about everything else,  but not jeans or trousers. 

I traced all three patterns onto the same piece of tissue, so that I could see the difference in the drafts.  The two I'm most interested in are traced in different colors, Patrones model #31 is in red and Burda is in blue.  Check out the differences:

Front:

Back:

Hmmm.  So, I traced off the crotch curve of my current favorite jeans, and well, it seems to match the Patrones better than the Burda.  It closely follows the Burda until right after the curve and then there is quite a bit of difference.   Here it is compared with the Patrones first, and the Burda second. 

Sorry about the photo above.  I've uploaded it twice, in the proper orientation and Blogger has kept turning it.  Grrrr.  Just turn your head and you'll see that the green line diverges from the blue line underneath just after the curve. 

I hope to get a muslin made up for the Patrones soon, but I'm not sure, as I'll be subbing all day tomorrow, leaving little time for sewing.

Parting Shot:  She Lives.  Yes, my other cats are still alive and well, even though Wellie seems to have stolen the show.  See, Kiwi has come to visit me in the studio.  She's the "studio cat" and likes to hang around while I'm sewing.  She'll even come to me and meow and want me to go in there and get to work.